Wednesday, 13 July 2022

Chelseas boots, Mary Quant, 1967

We recently acquired these fabulous Chelseas ankle boots, designed by Mary Quant in 1967. In black coloured cotton jersey, enveloped in transparent polyvinyl chloride (PVC), they were manufactured by G.B. Britton & Sons, Bristol. The trademark Quant daisy logo can be seen moulded into the heel and printed on the insole (refer image below).


Image ref: AIBDC : 009259.
Image credit: Katherine Pell



Released as one of five different PVC designs within the quant afoot range, they were advertised in Flair magazine in September 1967 as:

‘… boots with a difference in a sparkling first collection … in crystal clear plastic over colours that zoom into fashion's orbit, they're boots that shrug off wear and weather marks, come up shining.’

They were sold at a cost of 49/11 (everything under £5 was priced in shillings and pence), equivalent today to roughly £50.


Image ref: Flair magazine advert, September 1967.
Image credit:
https://www.thejohnbrightcollection.co.uk/



The boots were the culmination of two years’ work to create affordable, distinctive, fun and comfortable footwear in PVC, a material Quant had first explored in her ‘wet collection’ launched in 1963. Encountering problems in mass-producing these designs, such as machining the seams causing the synthetic material to both split and melt, Quant collaborated with Alligator Rainwear, who were able to devise a method for welding the seams instead and successfully manufactured the plastics coats in large volumes. This partnership led to the development of the PVC boots with renowned boot makers, G.B. Britton & Sons.

In an interview with CBC (the Canadian Broadcasting Corporation) in 1968, Quant talks about wanting to make shoes which were ‘like glass or bottles’ and how the injection moulding process used to make her footwear was just like pouring ‘chewing gum into a mould’ (refer clip below: https://www.youtube.com/clip/UgkxsU4evg9ldwx0Q6umGaYu6DR0NTvAGh6G).





Transcript 0:17 – 1.36:

“Really, it’s how I got into this shoe thing because I’ve never had a pair of comfortable shoes in my life and it’s the same thing, you know, feet are a very complex shape and I wanted to make shoes which were like glass or bottles and had no seams and bits that rub and all that, and all bendy and loose … So, there were some chaps that had just invented this way of making things where you just pour a kind of chewing gum into a mould, into a last, and you get out what you want, and you know, rather like making sort of jelly. And so they said, more or less, come and play with my machinery and this is how we started making these shoes.”


Image ref: Quant holding a red Chelseas boot in her design studio, 1967.
Image credit: Lister, 2019.


Despite contemporary anecdotal evidence suggesting that the boots were not actually that comfortable (they could make your feet sweat in the hot summer, freeze in the cold winter and wet in the rain as the neck of the boots were so wide), they were the ideal footwear to complement the rising hemlines and tights that Quant helped to make so popular.

The Chelseas are currently on display in the museum but if you would like to view them in closer detail, or look at any of MoDiP’s other Mary Quant plastics objects, contact us for an appointment.


Katherine Pell
Collections Officer

 

References:

Lister, J., (2019) Mary Quant. London: V&A Publishing, pp. 148.

https://books.google.co.uk/books?id=u3LeDwAAQBAJ&pg=PA21&redir_esc=y#v=onepage&q&f=false

https://collections.museumoflondon.org.uk/online/object/769430.html

https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O84584/pair-of-ankle-quant-mary/

https://fashiontextilemuseumblog.wordpress.com/2020/08/13/mary-quant-the-wet-collection/

https://web.archive.org/web/20110629185733/http://www.buckscc.gov.uk/bcc/museum/object/object.page

https://www.manchestereveningnews.co.uk/news/greater-manchester-news/how-stockports-style-regions-rain-16311072

https://www.modip.ac.uk/artefact/modipl-0035

https://www.ourwarwickshire.org.uk/content/catalogue_item/warwickshire-in-100-objects-mary-quant-boots

https://www.thejohnbrightcollection.co.uk/

https://www.thisismoney.co.uk/money/bills/article-1633409/Historic-inflation-calculator-value-money-changed-1900.html

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EztpFM3wjqU

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SB5eIfHXkWQ


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